Friday, December 31, 2010

Hee hee

Listening to me go through my stash of spinning fibers must be funny. "Hankies. More hankies. Ooh, other hankies. Hey, still more hankies!"

I really like silk hankies.

I'd forgotten how much awesome stuff I have in my spinning stash. It's mostly silk in various forms and alpaca, with a few other fibers. One of my cats is allergic to sheep's wool, so I'm mostly wool-free, but... Well, I'm not a saint. There's a hand-dyed braid of roving in there that I got just before she was diagnosed because I had promised it to myself after finishing something or other, and want to keep that. There's a huge ball of a beautifully dyed English Longwool I won as a door prize one year at a kinda-local fiber guild event. Then a few odds and ends with some significance.

Mostly, though, I've got a lot of silk in various forms, a lot of alpaca in various forms, and a whole lot of sheep-free, brightly colored fibery love. :)

Thursday, December 30, 2010

I love my spinning wheel

This is not a new phenomena. I've had my spinning wheel for, oh, I guess it's right about two years now. But I probably haven't used it for about a year. I pulled it out again yesterday and starting working on it. Ooh, this is fun.

Union rules require that I post a picture of the singles on the bobbin:

This is some silk top I had. I suspect it may have been the leftovers of two or more dyeing batches. Some pieces of it are very bright pinks and purples and fuchsias, while others are a more subdued grey-purple and grey-indigo. When I started it spinning it, a year or a more ago, I had a plan on how to manage the differences. Damned if I can remember what that plan was now. ::shrugs::

I figure I'll spin it until I run out, divide it onto two bobbins and make a two-ply. For other animal fibers I prefer 3 plies, but I generally two-ply silk. That structure shows off the sheen of silk well, plus you get more yardage. Silk is only going to fluff up so much, so I don't find that a 3-ply has much advantage.

Now I need to find the silk hankies I was halfway through, pull out one of my (great many) pretty drop spindles and finish it up. I do remember what I was doing with those. They were a blue-green mix with the ones on top being more green and the ones on bottom being more blue. I'd split them in half by color, and planned to ply them together to get a mixed blue-green effect.

Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Just a peek at what I'm doing

I know, I know, I still haven't gotten the First Impressions Dress packaged and posted. The sad part is I've basically just got to make a download thumbnail (well, three), and I just can't bring myself to do it. I really do what to get it done before my vacation is over, though.
In the meantime, though, here's a peek at what I'm doing now:

I love working with Pranx. He's just such an adorable figure, and the fan base is pretty cool.
There's also going to be a coat with this set. I'm still deciding whether I want to add a vest, too. I plan for each piece will be separate so you can mix and match. I'm not sure if that'll make it more prone to poke-thru when conformed, though. In theory it shouldn't, since they'll all have the same joint parameters, but Poser doesn't always act according to theory.
On a different hobby, I started an Ishbel shawl (well, actually scarf) some time ago because the center stockinette portion is good waiting room knitting, and I started the lace portion earlier this week. No pictures yet, but I'm excited to say that it's going very quickly, especially for lace. I'm already on the third pattern section out of five. :)

Saturday, December 25, 2010

OMG, Entrelac Sheep!

Lookie lookie lookit!

If you don't have a Ravelry account, you can lookit Chemknit's, or go to the Amazon page for Norwegian Handknits, click "search inside this book" and search for "Entrelac Sheep".

I got the book Norwegian Handknits for Christmas, and as you may have guessed, I adore the pattern for the entrelac sheep! They're so cute! This is a thing which must be made.

Tuesday, December 7, 2010

Tutorial: Getting Marvelous Designer stuff into Poser at the proper scale

OK, today we got a tutorial. One of the things that MD users modeling for Poser have struggled with is getting models from Poser to MD and back in the proper scale. See, the problem here is that in most 3D programs, 1 unit represents a real world inch, or a centimeter, or a millimeter. In Poser, 1 unit represents 103 inches, or 8.6 feet, or 261.6 centimeters. I'm sure it made sense to someone at one time. OK, that's a lie. I'm not convinced that has ever made sense to anyone, anywhere, anytime. However, it's what we got, so we have to work with it.

Poser's stupidly small scale causes all sorts of problems when we try to play with the rest of the 3D graphics world, and MD is just an example of that.

Now, I generally use the free program Objaction Scaler, so that's what I'll be assuming for this tutorial. (BTW, sorry about the artifacts on the screen caps. I didn't realize they were saving that way until I was done with everything.)

1. Start in Poser. Load up the figure you want to make clothes for. Turn off IK, and completely zero the figure. If you're ultimately going to be making conforming clothes, you might want to use PhilC's "Super Zero" script if you have it or even start with the figure's OBJ instead of exporting from Poser, to make absolutely sure you have everything zeroed. If you're doing dynamic, the zero within Poser is what you want to match.

2. On the menu bar, go to File->Export->Wavefront OBJ...

3. Poser brings up a dialog box asking what frames you want to export. Select "Single Frame".

4. Next comes the "Select objects" dialog box. Make sure only your figure's bodyparts are selected. You can do this quickly by clicking the box beside "Universe" to turn everything off, then selecting the box by your figure name.

5. THIS IS THE FIRST IMPORTANT PART. Next you come to export options. If you are making dynamic clothes, do not check "As Morph Target". You can do what you want with the others, but leave this off.

If you are making conforming clothes, DO check "As morph target". If there are any hidden offsets, you want to match them.

6. Save your figure. You might want to save the Poser file at this point, so you can come back to it later instead of having to do all the zeroing and IKing again later. Open Objaction Scaler.

7. In Scaler, chose the figure you just exported as your input, and provide a new name and file path for your output. I always click the "Output File" and then treat it like any other save dialog to do this. It sometimes wigs out if I just type in a new file name/path.

Under the scaling factors, put in some ginormous number. Generally speaking for a typical figure, like Victoria 4, you'll want around 2500. It doesn't matter, but remember this number. I make it part of the output filename so I can reuse this avatar easily later without going "crap, how much did I scale that by" later.

(For the example, I'm exporting Aiko 3. She's pretty petite compared to the Vickies, but I want to use the same patterns for her that I do for them, so I'm making her larger than normal.)

Once everything's set, click the Convert button. It should finish pretty quickly.

8. OK, enough with Poser. Now we're heading over to Marvelous Designer. Once it's open, go to File->Import->Obj and select the figure you scaled up in the last step.

9. THIS IS A REALLY IMPORTANT PART. Import your embiggened obj at 100% scale, and load as new avatar. Again, do not change the scaling. Leave it at 100%.

10. Do your stuff in Marvelous Designer. When you're done, go to File->Export->OBJ, and give it a file name for your awesome new outfit.

11. THIS IS ANOTHER IMPORTANT PART. In the export options, export at 100% scale. Don't try to change it in MD. Also, you'll want to uncheck "shape" on the list. That's your avatar; she doesn't need to come along for the ride.

12. Time for another round in Objaction Scaler. Load up your awesome new outfit. Give it a new filename in the output box. Now, under scaling, put the same scaling factor you used for your avatar, but this time click the "Reduce" button. Click convert when you're ready.

13. I usually make a pit stop through UVMapper at this point to lay out the map like I want. All the pieces are already laid out flat for you like your pattern (which is beautiful mapping for clothing, BTW), but they're out of the 0-1 range, overlapping, and may not be in scale to each other.

Hint 1: When you bring it in to UVMapper, do not select "yes" when it asks if you want to correct out of range data. Instead let it bring it in huge, then select all and use the '/' shortcut to scale it down until it fits on the map. This keeps everything square, and then you can rearrange things and scale them relative to each other without distortion. If you let UVMapper do it, some of your pieces could end up squished in one dimension, but not the other.

Hint 2: If you don't change the pattern, MD exports the same vertices in the same order, even if you've fit your outfit to a different figure. So if you're fitting to a bunch of figures like I do, you only have to map one, and then you can import the rest, go to File->Import UVS, select the one you mapped and click OK. Identical mapping, no work. (If you had to change the pattern, though, no such luck. The mesh will be different.)

14. OK, back in Poser. Either open the file you saved when you made your avatar, or again load up your figure and zero everything. Then go to File->Import->Wavefront OBJ... and select your reduced size and optionally UVMapped

15. THIS IS THE FINAL REALLY IMPORTANT PART. Uncheck everything in the import dialog. Don't scale, don't drop to floor, don't do anything except import your outfit.

16. Ta-da! Your outfit fits. You're ready to clothify it, group it, or whatever you'd normally do at this stage.

Everything's fine in the back, too, in case you were worried.

Monday, December 6, 2010

"First Impressions" Dress Update

It's been a while since I posted a WIP pic, so here we go:

I've pretty much got the Poser versions done except for packing, but I'll be sitting on them for a while yet, I'm afraid. Zigraphix is releasing a free DAZ Studio Shader Mixer tutorial, which should be out in the next few days at the latest in theory. So with that to help, I plan to take another run at DAZ Studio materials for them as well. (Although I'm still not going to try to recreate BagginsBill's 140-node wonder with the pinstripe wool.) My previous first-impression-of-the-software ranting aside, I do want to support DAZ Studio users to the extent possible without losing my sanity.

Believe me, though, I do want to release this soon -- if for no other reason than I'm getting kind of sick of looking at it. ;)

Thursday, December 2, 2010

Another "First Impressions" Dress Status Update

The good news is that I'm finished adding morphs to the V4 "First Impressions" dress.

The bad news is that I still have to do the separate top, which will have more morphs than the dress. Basically, other than the She-Freak, any morph that poked the shins out the back of the long skirt was skipped because magnets didn't handle it well and the Cloth Room was time consuming and inconsistent. The top will have many of those that were skipped on the dress.

That "many" brings me to the other bad news: I had to take away one of the She-Freak variations, so only She-Freak variation 1 will be available on the dress. I didn't realize it when I first made the morph, but the magnets I used had pulled the modesty panel through the front of the dress, which just isn't acceptable. That will be a problem in the top as well.

I'm hoping to get this set out this weekend, but that'll probably be pushing my luck, given the amount of stuff I have left to do. (V4 morphs on the top, nice thumbnails for everything, packaging each of the three sets.) So it may be next week instead.